What is the seasonal calendar in wine making in Alentejo, Portugal?

by Mickey Geraghty

The Natural Rhythm of Alentejo’s Wine Calendar

In Portugal’s sun-drenched Alentejo region, winemaking follows an ancient rhythm dictated by nature’s clock. This traditional calendar, perfected over centuries, adapts to the Mediterranean climate’s unique characteristics while preserving distinctive local practices like talha (amphora) winemaking—a Roman-era tradition that defines the region’s viticultural identity.

Winter (December – February): The Season of Rest and Preparation

Winter in Alentejo marks a crucial period of vineyard maintenance and preparation. During these cooler months, several essential activities take place:

  • Pruning: Skilled workers carefully shape the vines of indigenous varieties like Antão Vaz, Aragonez, and Trincadeira, removing excess growth to ensure optimal fruit production
  • Soil Care: Farmers analyze and amend the region’s characteristic schist and granite soils, incorporating organic matter when needed
  • Equipment Maintenance: Traditional clay amphoras (talhas) undergo careful cleaning and restoration, while modern equipment is serviced for the upcoming season

Spring (March – May): The Awakening

As temperatures rise, the vineyards burst into life. This season demands careful attention to:

  • Bud Break: Usually occurring in early March, this marks the first sign of the new growing season, with timing increasingly affected by climate variations
  • Shoot Thinning: Removing excess shoots helps control vine vigor and future grape quality, especially crucial for Alentejo’s heat-resistant varieties
  • Disease Prevention: Natural preventive measures against common vine diseases are implemented, adapted to the region’s warm, dry conditions

Summer (June – August): The Growing Season

Alentejo’s intense summer heat, often exceeding 40°C, plays a crucial role in grape development. Key activities include:

  • Canopy Management: Maintaining proper leaf coverage to protect grapes from excessive sun exposure, particularly important for white varieties like Antão Vaz
  • Water Management: Careful irrigation decisions based on traditional knowledge and modern technology, increasingly critical as summers become hotter and drier
  • Veraison: Monitoring the color change in grapes, typically beginning in late July for early-ripening varieties

Harvest Season (September – October): The Culmination

The most anticipated time in the wine calendar arrives as summer transitions to autumn, often celebrated with local vindima (harvest) festivals. This period centers around:

  • Hand-Harvested Grapes: Traditional selective picking ensures only the best fruit is chosen, with white varieties typically harvested first
  • Early Morning Work: Harvesting in cooler temperatures preserves grape quality, especially important in Alentejo’s warm climate
  • Sorting and Processing: Immediate careful selection and gentle handling of freshly picked fruit, with specific protocols for grapes destined for talha wines

Late Autumn (November): The Transformation

As the new wines begin their journey, focus shifts to:

  • Fermentation Monitoring: Careful oversight of natural fermentation processes, particularly in talhas where indigenous yeasts work their magic
  • Traditional Techniques: Implementation of ancient methods, including the distinctive practice of fermenting and aging wine in clay amphoras, a tradition dating back to Roman times
  • First Tastings: Early evaluation of the new vintage’s character, including the unique mineral notes imparted by talha aging

Climate’s Impact on Wine Seasons

Alentejo’s Mediterranean climate has traditionally been characterized by hot, dry summers and mild winters. However, recent climate changes have led to earlier bud break, faster ripening cycles, and occasionally extreme weather events. Winemakers are adapting by adjusting harvest dates, exploring drought-resistant varieties, and implementing water conservation measures to maintain wine quality despite these challenges.

Preserving Traditional Knowledge

While modern technology assists today’s winemakers, many continue to rely on generational knowledge passed down through families. This is particularly evident in talha winemaking, where the expertise of crafting and maintaining the clay vessels, timing the fermentation, and understanding the interaction between wine and clay remains a cherished oral tradition. This blend of ancestral wisdom and contemporary understanding helps produce wines that truly express Alentejo’s unique terroir and cultural heritage.